Friday, July 1, 2016

NOLA, Nawlins, New Orleans, Louisiana (Partie Un)

As I upload the photos here to P&P, I am realizing that perhaps this trip needs to be at least two posts similar to how I did Turkey - Part 1, Part 2, Part 3 and Part 4...

So here it is, our beloved NOLA - Part One (or as a nod to the French heritage of New Orleans, Partie Un or as in the Mardi Gras fashion Party On - you choose).

This city is so special, I have wanted to come here since I was 17 years old. That is the age I was when I read "Interview with a Vampire" by Anne Rice for the first time. Indeed the city is as Louis and Lestat described it but now I have my own perspective. It was an excellent trip and I hope we can visit again soon. 

We stayed at an excellent boutique hotel called The French Market Inn. I am reluctant to tell you guys about it, because next time we go to NOLA, I want to be sure I can get a room there again. It has excellent Louisiana architecture, a sweet, refreshing, bijoux pool, brick work and courtyards everywhere. Plus, it's centrally located without being directly on top of everything on Bourbon St and it's clean as a whistle. And the cherry on top, the staff is impeccable, from manners, to welcome to concierge if you're not sure what to do. I feel like I'd go back to New Orleans just to stay at this little place.

The view from our sweet room.
The New Orleans sky.
The beautiful courtyards at The French Market Inn

Day 1, Tuesday: After we got situated at the hotel, we decided to walk the city for some food and to see where NOLA's energy would take us. We snuck into a tiny place that was not on our list of must see's. But both the husband and I are drawn to organic experiences of what it might look like if we lived in a place. The Chart Room would likely be a place we would frequent if we lived in NOLA. Oddly, it was a place we frequented even just for the four nights we were there and we sort of called it home base.

Our first meeting of the famed New Orleans phrase at The Chart Room: "Laissez les bon temps rouler!"
Translation: "Let the good times roll!"

After our beer at The Chart Room only a few short blocks walk was the Hotel Monteleone. The Carousel Bar they say is a must see and the must drink is the Pimms Cup. The fates were on our side because we got a seat as soon as we walked in. It was the best Pimms Cup ever and it is a cocktail I'm going to add to my regular rotation.

One of the embellishments at The Carousel Bar.

Starving, we headed off down Bourbon Street for some food. We had been told by a friend of friend to stop by the Verti Marte. We were salivating at the thought of Po-Boys so we ordered 2. We were told to get the "All That Jazz." The thing was the size of Florida but we had no idea it was going to be so huge. Needless to say the second Po Boy (plain 'ol shrimp) went (unfortunately) to waste. We walked and we walked and the night came and I got a whistle from a man on  balcony (victory) who said, "Hey good lookin,' you want some beads?" "Of course," said I! (VICTORY)! I mean c'mon, some dude thought I was cute, whilst I walked with my husband and from the distance of a balcony. Did I mention victory?

We stopped at one more little joint, 801 Royal. The woman behind the bar flung me their special and as she set it down in front of me, she said, "Might want to stir it sweetie, I put a good lot of Moonshine on there." Giggle. I just wanted to experience the freedom of ordering and then taking an adult beverage in a to-go cup.

Just a small pic here. In a to go cup with a lot of moonshine.

Day 2 Wednesday: We woke up pretty late for our usual standards of 7AM or earlier. It must've been 9AM by the time we got out the door. We went in search of breakfast or brunch. We headed to Marigny, a little borough just at the outskirts of the French Quarter. A friend suggested that we go to The Ruby Slipper. We got in the door and Bulent looked at me and said, "Hey, there was a little place just a block away. We passed it on our way here. Let's check it out." He is all about an "off the beaten path" experience and so we ventured. Although I was a bit torn. I really wanted The Ruby Slipper. I have a big running list for stuff to do on our next trip there.

The great business card really says everything you need to know. Look at that little girl with her confirmation veil and those other little hooligans and the mother's expression - oh the mother's expression.

On the outdoor covered eating area at the "new" place was a lady sitting with her phone enjoying the sunshine. I tried to stumble into the little place but the door wouldn't budge. I was pulling and pulling. The lady in front said, "push, lovebug, push!" And so I did and in we went.

Horn's was magnificent! Not crowded but clearly locals attending. The service was good, the dining room clean and the food outstanding! Fresh flowers on the tables and $3.00 French 75's? YES PLEASE! Plus Kappa (the owner) is warm and wonderful. I wanted her to be my friend. I told her if she's ever in CA to look us up. She said, "K.I.T.!"

After breakfast we simply wended our way back to the quarter. We saw some lovely things. An art gallery featuring New Orleans artists. We met a woman there who made some suggestions and we walked a bit more. Bulent found himself sitting at Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop.

And then we went to The French Market. And we walked around vendor booths and had a melon daiquiri and walked more. We walked down Decatur St. and went to an excellent, eclectic store called Milk Studio and another store which was sort of an artists mall. And here are some of the treasures we found there:

Disappointingly I do not know the name of the store nor the artist that painted this.
We walked still, yet more. And looked at beautiful architecture and sensational signs and delightful colors. And then headed to the Historic New Orleans Collection. An old historical collection begun by a general and his wife in 1966, the collection boasts fine old cartography, little known historical facts and utterly knowledgeable docents who are kind and hospitable and the best part - it was free!

Sadly, this was the only photo I took there. I wish I had taken more but I was transported to another world without phones but dusted with voodoo, immigration, the Louisiana Purchase, the Spanish occupation of the city and so on. Nevertheless, as my husband's totem is a lion, I took it for him and I love the composition.
We left the museum hungrier than bears edging dangerously close to hangry. I had to run back to the museum to ask where we could get great seafood. One of the docents pointed us in the direction of Felix's. Turns out it was one of my favorite most memorable parts of our trip. We sat at the bar. It was comfortable cool and super casual and we made friends with Faye, our bar tender. She was fantastic! She told us little stories and made some great suggestions and I truly felt a connection with her. If you go there you will truly feel NOLA - no bullshit there. It is a real place. Not too many tourists, excellent food and good prices but the best part was the spirit.

We enjoyed our lunch to the max! We left Faye behind and stepped out into torrential rain. I was glad that Amy reminded me to bring the umbrella. But like other tropical places, it rained very hard for ten minutes and then the sun came out again. Here is where some people might complain about the humidity. Not me. I love the warmth, the steady heat. We simply soaked in the climate (punny) and continued to walk.

Finally we made it back to The French Market Inn and took a rest at the pool before heading up to our room to clean up for dinner. We headed to dinner at Cane and Table on Decatur. It was good. The drinks were delicious but the atmosphere was so old world, that it was truly an escape. Amy suggested this restaurant to us (along with The Ruby Slipper) and it did not disappoint. I had a Rum Punch and some fancy hush puppies with a green tomato remoulade.

The end of our evening came again after a short, beautiful walk, in front of St. Louis Cathedral to have a final night cap at The Chart Room. More tomorrow. Laissez les bon temps rouller!

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